Archive-name: sports/fencing-faq/part1 Last-modified: 1994/06/14 Version: 3.02 +-------------------+ | F E N C I N G | +-------------------+ This is a list of Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) with answers, compiled for the UseNet newsgroup rec.sport.fencing. It is intended to reduce repetitive discussions on the Net by addressing commonly raised topics. This document is maintained by Morgan Burke (Email: mor...@sitka.triumf.ca). Contributions, corrections, and suggestions are welcome. Most of the questions and answers pertain to FIE (Olympic) Fencing; Japanese fencing (kendo, kenjustsu, iaido, etc.) is treated in a separate FAQ list ("Japanese Sword Arts") that can be found in the newsgroups rec.sport.fencing or rec.martial-arts (contact Neil Gendzwill, s...@cs.usask.ca). Part I of this FAQ deals with common questions about fencing, rules of competition, and equipment. Part II is a list of resources that are useful to the modern fencer (eg. suppliers, references, glossary). v3.02 *** Last Revised 1994-Jun-14 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- PART I: General General: 1.1 What sports and martial arts comprise fencing? 1.2 Which is the best weapon? 1.3 Is fencing going to be eliminated from the Olympics? Getting Started: 1.4 Does it hurt? 1.5 What is the best weapon for a beginner to start with? 1.6 How long does it take to become good? 1.7 What qualities make a good fencer? 1.8 How much does it cost to get involved in fencing? 1.9 How do I find a good fencing club? Equipment: 1.10 What kind of equipment should I buy? 1.11 Is FIE homologation worth the price? Training: 1.12 What kind of cross-training will help my fencing? 1.13 How can I improve my technique without the help of a coach? Regulations: 1.14 What is right of way? 1.15 What constitutes an attack? 1.16 What constitutes a parry? 1.17 What are the new sabre rules? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.1 What sports and martial arts comprise fencing? The Olympic sport of fencing is comprised of three weapons: foil, epee, and sabre. The rules governing these three weapons are determined by the FIE (Federation Internationale d'Escrime). Briefly, the FIE weapons are described as follows: Foil: Descended from 18th century court sword training weapons, the foil has a thin, flexible blade with a square cross-section and a small bell guard. Touches are scored with the point on the torso of the opponent, including the groin and back. Foil technique emphasizes strong defense and the killing attack to the body. Epee: Similar to the duelling swords of the mid-19th century, epees have stiff blades with a triangular cross section, and large bell guards. Touches are scored with the point, anywhere on the opponent's body. Unlike foil and sabre, there no rules of right-of-way to decide which attacks have precedence, and double hits are possible. Epee technique emphasises timing, point control, and a good counter-attack. Sabre: Descended from cavalry swords of the late 19th century, sabres have a light, flat blade and a knuckle guard. Touches can be scored with either the point or the edge of the blade, anywhere above the opponent's waist. Sabre technique emphasises speed, feints, and strong offense. The most popular of eastern fencing techniques is kendo, the Japanese "Way of the Sword". Kendo is fought with a bamboo shinai, intended to resemble a two-handed Japanese battle sword. Combatants wear armour, and strike to the top or sides of the head, the sides of the body, the throat, or the wrists. Accepted technique must be observed, and judges watch for accuracy, power, and spirit. See the Japanese Sword Arts FAQ for more information. Other martial arts that include elements of swordsmanship are: Aikido -- self defence against armed and unarmed attackers. Includes using and defending oneself against Japanese sword techniques. Arnis, Escrima -- stick fighting. Iaido -- the Japanese art of the draw. Kenjutsu -- the unadulterated Japanese martial art of the sword. Kung-fu -- a Chinese martial art that includes many sword techniques. Modern Pentathlon -- the "soldier's medley", a sport that recreates demands placed on a pre-20th century military messenger: running, swimming, shooting, equestrian jumping, and epee fencing. Single Stick -- an ancestor of sabre fencing. SCA -- the "Society for Creative Anachronism", an organization that attempts to re-create the lifestyle of Medieval Europe, including jousts and tourneys. Emphasizes heavy weapon and shield techniques, the use of armour, Florentine fencing, and fencing in the round. Additional info on the SCA can be found in the newsgroup rec.org.sca. Tai Chi -- another Chinese martial art that includes many sword techniques. 1.2 Which is the best weapon? Such a question is an open invitation to religious warfare. Everybody loves to participate, but nothing is ever settled. If the question means "what kind of fencing is the most fun?" then the answer is: it depends what aspects of fencing you enjoy the most. If you are fascinated by technique, bladework, and tactics, you will probably get a lot of satisfaction from foil fencing. More visceral fencers who want to experience the adrenaline rush of a fast, agressive sword fight will want to try some sabre. Most epee fencers consider themselves practical, no-nonsense sword fighters who rely on as few artificial rules as possible. Enthusiasts of more medieval combat styles, involving armour and heavy weapons, should consider joining the SCA or a kendo dojo. On the other hand, if the question means "which weapon is the most deadly?" the answer will depend on a lot of factors, not the least of which are the skill of the combatants, the presence of armour, the military and cultural context, and the rules of the fight (ie. is this a street fight, a gentlemen's duel, or open field warfare?). Most swords are highly optimized for performance in a specific environment, and will not perform well outside it. Comparing two swords from completely different historical contexts is therefore extremely difficult, if not downright silly. Then again, perhaps the question means "which style of fencing is the most realistic?" It must be said that questions of realism have little relevance to an activity that has almost no practical application in the modern world other than sport and fitness. Historically, however, epees have the closest resemblance (among FIE weapons) to real duelling swords, and the rules closely parallel those of actual duels (sometimes being fought to only a single point). Other martial arts with a high realism factor include kenjutsu and some aspects of SCA fighting. 1.3 Is fencing going to be eliminated from the Olympics? Although fencing is one of only four sports to have been involved in every modern Olympic Games since their inception in 1896, it has been mentioned as one of the disciplines that will be eliminated from the Games following Atlanta 1996. According to Gilbert Felli, Sports Director of the International Olympic Committee, the IOC plans to refine future games in various ways, including: -- limiting the number of athletes to 15000 -- increasing participation by women -- eliminating "so-called artificial team events" -- limiting sports of a similar type -- modernizing the Olympic program -- encouraging sports that provide a good television spectacle Fencing is currently undergoing serious revisions to its rules and structure to improve its value as a (televised?) spectator sport, perhaps in the hopes of retaining its Olympic status. Lobby efforts to save fencing's Olympic status have been underway for at least a year. Olympic fencing is safe through 1996, and has even been expanded to include women's epee for the first time. The status of Olympic fencing for the 2000 games should be determined by now, but news has not yet reached the author. 1.4 Does it hurt? Not if done properly. Although executed with appreciable energy, a good, clean fencing attack hurts no more than a tap on the shoulder. Reckless and overly aggressive fencers can occasionally deliver painful blows, however. Fencing *is* a martial art, so you should expect minor bruises and welts every now and again. They are rarely intentional. The most painful blows tend to come from inexperienced fencers who have not yet acquired the feel of the weapon. The primary source of injury in fencing is from pulled muscles and joints. Proper warm-up and stretching before fencing will minimize these occurences. There is a risk of being injured by broken weapons. The shards of a snapped blade can be very sharp and cause serious injury, especially if the fencer doesn't immediately realize his blade is broken, and continues fencing. Always wear proper protective gear to reduce this risk. FIE homologated jackets, britches, and masks are ideal, as they are made with puncture-resistant fabrics such as kevlar. If you cannot afford such extravagances, use a plastron (half-jacket worn beneath the regular fencing jacket), and avoid old and rusty masks. Always wear a glove that covers the cuff, to prevent blades from running up the sleeve. Fencing is often said to be safer than golf. Whether or not this is true, it is an extraordinarily safe sport considering its heritage and nature. 1.5 What is the best weapon for a beginner to start with? Foil is the most common starter weapon. It is an excellent weapon to begin with if you have no preferences or want to learn generalized principles of swordfighting. Transitions to the other weapons from foil are relatively straight forward. Foil is an abstracted form of fencing that emphasises proper defence, and cleanly executed killing attacks. Historically it was a training weapon for the small sword, so it is well suited for the purposes of learning. However, it is far from a simple weapon, and many experienced fencers return to foil after trying the others. Sabre can also be an effective starter weapon, for a few reasons. Like foil, it has rules of right-of-way to emphasize proper defense, and its de-emphasis of point attacks can be a relief to a beginner who doesn't yet have much point control. Also, many low-level sabre competitions are still fenced dry, meaning that it can be the cheapest of all weapons to compete in (although electric sabre is definitely the most expensive weapon to compete in). However, sabre differs from foil and epee in a few key respects that can reduce its effectiveness as a starter weapon if the fencer plans to try the others in the future. Among these differences are the aforementioned de-emphasis of point attacks, and a different sense of timing and distance. Epee can sometimes be a good starter weapon for two reasons. First, the rules are simple and easy to grasp, and second, the competition costs are lower, since no lame' is required. However, the apparent simplicity of the sport can obscure its subtleties to the beginner, and make progress difficult later on. Furthermore, the lack of right-of-way in epee can make transitions to the other two weapons difficult, if put off for too long. 1.6 How long does it take to become good? There is a saying that it takes two lifetimes to master fencing. By the time anyone has come close to "mastering" the sport, they are long past their athletic prime. Some may feel that this is a drawback to the sport, but most fencers see it as a great strength: fencing never becomes dull or routine; there are always new skills to master, and new grounds to conquer. A dedicated novice who practices twice per week will be ready to try low-level competition in 3-6 months. Competition at this point should be viewed as a learning aid, not as a dedicated effort to win. Serious attempts at competing will be possible after 2-3 years, when the basic skills have been sufficiently mastered that the mind is free to consider strategy. A moderate level of skill (eg. C classification) can take 3-5 years of regular practice and competition. Penetration of the elite ranks (eg. world cup, A classification) demands three to five days per week of practice and competition, and usually at least 10-15 years of experience. Progress can be faster or slower, depending on the fencer's aptitude, attitude, and dedication. Rapid progress normally requires at least three practices per week, and regular competition against superior fencers. The average world champion is in his late 20s to early 30s and began fencing as a child. 1.7 What qualities make a good fencer? There are many. On the athletic side, speed and endurance must rank foremost. Other traits that can be exploited are strength, precision, and flexibility. Quick reaction time is extremely important. On the intellectual side, a good mind for strategy and tactics is essential. The ability to quickly size up your opponent and adapt your style accordingly is essential. Psychologically, a fencer must be able to maintain focus, concentration, and emotional level-headedness under intense conditions of combat. Stress management, visualization, and relaxation techniques are all helpful to putting in winning performances. As far as body type goes, it is always possible to adapt your style to take advantage of your natural traits. Even so, height seems to be useful in epee, but not necessarily in sabre. Small or thin people are harder to hit in foil. A long reach helps in epee, and long legs are an asset in foil. It should be noted that left handers usually enjoy a slight advantage, especially against inexperienced fencers. This may account for the fact that lefties make up 15% of fencers, but half of FIE world champions. 1.8 How much does it cost to get involved in fencing? Beginner's dry fencing setup: about $100 - $200 US Includes: cotton jacket, glove, dry weapon, mask FIE Competition setup: about $500 - $1000 US Includes: FIE 800N jacket & britches, FIE 1600N mask, at least 2 electric weapons, body cord, socks, glove, shoes, lame (foil & sabre only), sensor (sabre only). Note: costs can be as much as halved by avoiding purchasing FIE certified equipment. While such equipment is required at national (Canada and Europe, but not USA) and international levels of competition, most local tournaments will overlook it. If you use a cotton or synthetic knit jacket, however, be sure to wear a plastron underneath. Club costs vary, but are usually on the order of $50-$100 per year for each day per week of fencing. Many clubs will provide or rent equipment to beginners. 1.9 How do I find a good fencing club? Start with your local Provincial or Divisional fencing association. If you don't know how to find them, contact your national fencing body (see section 2.1). Your national body may maintain a list of known fencing clubs in the country. Otherwise, your local association will be able to tell you about recognized clubs in your area. Many universities and colleges also sponsor fencing clubs and teams that will often accept non-students as members. You might also check out courses or camps offered by local community centers. Once you have a list of potential clubs, you will want to evaluate them and your needs. Desirable qualities vary, depending on your skill level and what you want to get out of fencing. Ask the following questions when selecting your club (if you're not sure what you want, "yes" is a good answer to all these questions): Does it have an active beginners' program? Are there enough fencers of your own skill level? Are there some fencers above your skill level? If you don't have your own equipment, does the club provide it? Does the club have ample electric scoring boxes and reels? Does the club emphasize the same weapons that you are interested in? Do club members compete regularly? Does the club have a master or coach? Has he/she had many competitive successes either fencing or coaching? Can you get individual lessons and instruction? At no extra cost? Lastly, atmosphere is important to any social endeavour. Choose a club that makes you feel comfortable and relaxed without sacrificing the athletic spirit that is essential to progress. 1.10 What kind of equipment should I buy? This FAQ does not endorse particular brands, but will point out some of the things to consider when purchasing equipment. Equipment merchants are listed in section 2.2. CLOTHING: FIE homologated clothing is the most expensive available, and is required at the highest levels of competition. It includes special fabrics (such as kevlar or ballistic nylon) around vital areas such as the chest, belly, and groin, and is highly resistant to punctures by broken blades. Alternatively, you can purchase kevlar underclothes and wear regular cotton outerwear. If not using FIE clothing, cotton or synthetic jackets should be utilised in conjunction with a plastron. Most jackets are left- or right-handed. Sabre fencers may wish to consider extra protective padding and elbow protectors. Athletic cups are helpful for men, and breast protectors are essential for women. A glove for the fencing hand is essential; it should cover the sleeve cuff, and have an opening at the wrist for the body wire. For the anal-retentive, FIE rules state that fencers must wear only white, and that skin must not show between the socks and pant legs. For casual and beginner fencers, sweat pants or baseball knickers are reasonable alternatives to genuine fencing clothing. MASKS: The best have FIE 800N or 1600N bibs to protect the neck, but cost considerably more than the regular varieties. For foil, masks should be well-insulated to prevent touches to the head from conducting to the lame' and registering as a touch. Electric sabre masks must be conductive, on the other hand, to allow head touches. Newer masks have stronger mesh and larger bibs, which is better both in terms of safety, and target coverage in foil. Avoid old and rusty masks, and consider subjecting a used mask to a punch test before using/purchasing it. LAME'S: Stainless steel is preferred, as they are much more corrosion resistant than older copper ones. Your lame' should come to your hip bones, and be form-fitting but not tight. Most lame's come in right and left-handed versions, but ambidextrous (back-zip) versions are also available. Regular rinsing or careful hand-washing of your lame' (especially immediately after a tournament or practice) will improve its lifespan. Avoid folding, crumpling, or abrading it. WEAPONS: There are a large number of variables to consider when shopping for blades, including stiffness, length, durability, flex point, weight, balance, and (of course) price. Which qualities a fencer prefers is largely a matter of taste. The length and thread of the tang may also be an issue. A wide variety of grips are available to epee and foil fencers, but choice is also a matter of preference. Guards come in various sizes and weights. Some fencers will also have preferences between 2-prong and bayonet body cords and connectors. Maraging steel foil blades are required at the highest levels of competition. They are about twice the price of regular blades, but are supposed to be more durable, and break more cleanly. SHOES: Fencing shoes are ideal, but often expensive. Indoor court shoes, volleyball shoes, and even wrestling shoes are good alternatives. Many styles of running shoe provide inadequate lateral stability. 1.11 Is FIE homologation worth the price? If you are competing internationally, or at the elite level in Canada, FIE homologated protective gear (clothing & mask) is required. FIE (maraging) blades are required in foil only. FIE homologated gear generally costs twice as much as regular gear. FIE homologated clothing and masks definitely provide the best protection money can buy, and are generally very high quality. If safety is a big concern for you, or you plan on serious competition, then the cost is worth it. Otherwise, there are non-homologated brands that provide reasonable protection for considerably lower cost (but also cheap brands that provide poor protection). Homologated clothing comes in varying weights, depending on the materials used. Kevlar tends to be heaviest, whereas ballistic nylons tend to be lighter. Note that FIE homologation includes both 800N and 1600N clothing; the latter is twice as strong. FIE (maraging) foil blades have a reputation for lasting considerably longer than regular steel blades, and are supposed to break more cleanly. Many fencers find them a superior value. As they vary in character in the same way as regular blades, similar caution should be exercised when purchasing them. Maraging epee and sabre blades do not seem to be so well received, and are not required for FIE competition. 1.12 What kind of cross-training will help my fencing? The best training for fencing is fencing. Fencing development is asymmetrical and few other sports use the same muscle groups, so this is a difficult question whose answer depends largely on what aspect of your training you really want to focus on. Cardiovascular fitness and leg strength always help, so anything that enhances these will be beneficial. Cycling, swimming, and aerobics are good examples. Running, sprinting, soccer, basketball, and similar sports can also be helpful, although some athletes dislike the stresses they put on the knees. Racquet sports like tennis, badminton, squash, racquetball, and table tennis are also excellent, and will exercise your weapon arm in addition to your legs. Many martial arts have physical and mental demands that are similar to fencing, and can improve both your fitness and your intellectual approach to the sport. Technique and tactics very rarely translate, however. Weight training can help, if done properly, but the athlete must remember that flexibility, speed, and technique are more important than raw strength. Endurance training should have priority over bodybuilding. Strength training can help, provided it doesn't build too much bulk. Most fencing weight-training programs concentrate heavily on leg and lower-body development. Some fencers maintain that juggling improves reactions, hand-eye coordination, and use of peripheral vision. Many coaches and fencers suggest occasional fencing or workouts with your opposite hand, both to improve skill and balance your muscular development. 1.13 How can I improve my technique without the help of a coach? It is very easy to acquire bad habits and poor technique if you do not have the guidance of a knowledgable fencing master, coach, or fellow fencer. If you are serious about improving your fencing, quality coaching is always your best investment. However, a disciplined fencer still has options if decent instruction is not available on a regular basis. Firstly, a solid knowledge of fencing theory and regulations is a must. The freelance fencer should study the FIE Rules of Competition and a good fencing manual (see Section 2.3). The fencer should test and apply this knowledge by presiding whenever possible. An appreciation of good fencing style is also essential, so that the fencer can readily identify weaknesses in his own and other fencers' techniques. Observation and comparison of skilled or accomplished fencers will develop this ability. Training videotapes and videotapes of high-level competitions (see Section 2.5) are also helpful in this regard. The freelance fencer must be open-minded and critical of his own technique, so that he can recognize problems before they develop into habits. Discussion of his weaknesses with training opponents will help him clarify the areas that need work. If possible, he should videotape his bouts and review them to spot defects in his tactics and technique. The fencer should seek out opponents who will strenuously test his weaknesses. More experienced fencers, left-handers, those whose tactics are particularly effective, and even those with annoying (ie. difficult) styles should be courted on the practice strip. When fencing less skilled opponents, the fencer should restrict his tactics to a small set that require practice, and resist the temptation to open up if he should start losing. The opportunity to participate in footwork and line drills should never be passed up. When he can find an agreeable partner, the fencer can do more personalized drills to exercise his weak areas. (Of course it is courteous to indulge the needs of one's partner when he in turn works on his own training.) Lastly, the fencer should remain aware of his bout psychology and mental state when fencing, and try to cultivate the mindset that in his experience produces good fencing. 1.14 What is right-of-way? Right-of-way is the set of rules used to determine who is awarded the point when there is a double touch in foil or sabre (ie. both fencers hit each other in the same fencing time). It is detailed in the FIE Rules of Competition, Articles 232-237 (foil) and 416-423 (sabre). The core assumption behind right-of-way is that a fencing bout is always in one of three states: -- nothing significant is happening -- the fencers are conceiving and executing their actions simultaneously -- one fencer is controlling the action and tempo and the other is trying to gain control. Since no points will be scored in the first situation, we can ignore it. In the second situation, the fencers' actions have equal significance, and it is impossible to award a touch. Both touches will be annulled and the bout will be resumed where it was stopped. The third situation is the tricky one. The controlling fencer has the right-of-way, and his hit has precedence over any hit from the other fencer. The job of the director is to decide which fencer was NOT controlling the action, and annul his touch. If he cannot decide, the director should abstain, annul BOTH hits, and resume the action where it left off. Control (and right-of-way) is taken whenever one fencer threatens the other with his blade. A threat can be either an attack (see question 1.15), or a "point in line" that is established before the opponent attacks. Control (and right-of-way) is lost when an attack misses, falls short, is broken off, or is deflected away from the target by a parry or other engagement from the defender. The defender has a split-second window of opportunity to return the attack (ie. riposte) before the attacker recovers; if he does so, he takes over right-of-way and the tables have turned. Otherwise it is a toss-up; the first fencer to initiate an attack will sieze the right-of-way anew. The right-of-way relationships between common fencing actions are as follows: - derobement has right-of-way over attacks on the blade - attacks on the blade have right-of-way over the point in line - point in line has right-of-way over the attack - the simple attack has right-of-way over the stop-hit - the stop-hit has right-of-way over the renewal of the attack - the stop-hit in time has right-of-way over the compound attack - the riposte has right-of-way over the renewal of the attack - the counter-riposte has right-of-way over the renewal of the riposte - the remise of the attack has right-of-way over the delayed riposte 1.15 What constitutes an attack? According to Article 10 of the FIE rules of competition, "the attack is the initial offensive action made by extending the arm and continuously threatening the valid target of the opponent." One common misconception is that a straight or straightening arm is required to assert the attack. In fact, it is not required that the attacker's arm become straight or even nearly so. It is sufficient if the arm extends, however little, from its normal on- guard position. A long arm is still good style, though, since it gives superior reach and clearly shows the fencer's intent. While the attack can often be asserted with minimal extension, retraction of the arm will almost always be interpreted as a break in the attack. A threatening weapon is normally interpreted to be one that will hit the opponent if nothing is done to prevent it. In other words, a weapon threatens if it is moving towards the target in a smooth, unbroken trajectory. This trajectory can be curved, especially if the attack is indirect, compound, or involves a cutting action. Hesitations and movements of the blade away from the target will usually be perceived as a break in the attack. Another common misconception is that a point attack does not threaten unless the point is in line. This is not generally true. An out-of-line point does threaten if it is moving towards the target on a smooth, unbroken trajectory. The most common example of this is the coupe' (cut-over), in which the blade is pulled out of line to avoid the the opponent's blade, and then returned into line to finish the attack. Coupe' takes the right-of-way immediately, even though the point is initially pulled away from the target. So-called "flicks", relatives of the coupe' that involve whipping the foible of the blade around parries or blocking body parts, can also take the right-of-way when the blade starts its final forward stroke. Many fencers are under the mistaken impression that a bent arm or out-of-line point constitutes a preparation, and therefore that they can rightfully attack into it. If the bent arm is extending and the out-of-line point is moving towards the target, however, this assumption is usually false under modern fencing conventions. A successful attack on the preparation must clearly precede the opponent's initiation of the phrase or a hesitation in his attack, or else arrive a fencing time ahead of his touch. Sabre fencers must also consider Article 417 of the Rules of Competition, which states when the attack must land relative to the footfalls of a lunge, step-lunge, (and fleche, historically). Attacks that arrive after the prescribed footfall are deemed continuations, and do not have right-of-way over the counter-attack. Sabre fencers must also remember that whip-over touches can be interpreted as remises, and not mal-parries. 1.16 What constitutes a parry? According to Article 10 of the FIE Rules of Competition, "the parry is the defensive action made with the weapon to prevent the attack from arriving". A successful parry deflects the threatening blade away from the target. It is not sufficient merely to find or touch the opponent's blade; the fencer must also exhibit control over it. If the attack continues without any replacement of the point and makes a touch, it retains the right-of-way ("mal-parry" by the defender). If the attacker must replace the point into a threatening line before continuing, it is a remise (renewal of the attack) and does not have right-of-way over the riposte. A well-executed parry should take the foible of the attacker's blade with the forte and/or guard of the defender's. This provides the greatest control over the opponent's blade. In other cases the parry can still be seen as sufficient if the attacking blade is sufficiently deflected. In ambiguous cases, however, the benefit of the doubt is usually given to the fencer who used his forte/guard. For example, if a fencer attempts to parry using his foible on his opponent's forte, it will often be interpreted in the reverse sense (eg. counter-time parry by the attacker), since such an engagement does not normally result in much deflection of the attack. A foible to foible parry could potentially be seen as a beat attack by the opposing fencer depending on the specifics of the action. In foil, the opponent's blade should not only be deflected away from the target, but away from off-target areas as well. An attack that is deflected off the valid target but onto invalid target still retains right-of-way. In sabre, the opponent's blade need only be deflected away from valid target, since off-target touches do not stop the phrase. Cuts are considered parried if their forward movement is stopped by a block with the blade or guard. Otherwise, sabre parries must be particularly clean and clear to avoid the possibility of whip-over touches. In epee, a good parry is simply any one that gains enough time for the riposte. Opposition parries and prise-de-fer are commonly used, since they do not release the opponent's blade to allow a remise. 1.17 What are the new sabre rules? The precise wording of the USFA implementation of the new sabre rules is as follows: In a simultaneous action where both fencers hit, no touch is awarded. Fencing will resume from the point at which the referee stopped the action. If only one fencer hits in a simultaneous action that hit is scored. Any forward movement with the rear foot crossing the forward foot is forbidden and will result in an immediate halt. A fencer who crosses the forward foot with the rear foot will be given a YELLOW CARD for the first offense (unless a YELLOW CARD has already been issued) and then a RED CARD for all subsequent repetitions. A touch will be annulled if at any time during a phrase the fencer crosses the forward foot with the rear foot, i.e., in the preparation of an action, during the action or immediately following the action. An action made by that fencer's opponent will be allowed provided that this action started prior to the halt. Be aware that the application of these rules may result in two touches being scored on one action. Example: Fencer Y has received a YELLOW CARD at the start of a pool bout for not being equipped with a security device to prevent the body cord from becoming disconnected from the weapon. Fencer Y is defeating Fencer Z by a score of 4-3. Simultaneous actions result in double hits but Fencer Y made the attack with a fleche (the rear foot came in front of the front foot); Fencer Z made an attack with an advance lunge. The touch by Fencer Y is annulled. The touch by Fencer Z is awarded. Fencer Y is given a RED CARD. Fencer Z wins the bout 5-4. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS: Author: Morgan Burke (mor...@sitka.triumf.ca) Contributors: special thanks to Suman Palit, Guy Smith, Greg Dilworth, Kevin Taylor, Eric Anderson, Blaine Price, Steve Hick, Kim Moser, David Glasser, Bryan Mansfield (C) 1993, 1994 Morgan Burke Permission is granted to copy and distribute all or part of this document for non-profit purposes. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of rec.sport.fencing FAQ Part I