Archive-name: fencing-faq Last-modified: 1993/09/15 Version: 2.2 +-------------------+ | F E N C I N G | +-------------------+ This is a list of Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) with answers, compiled for the UseNet newsgroup rec.sport.fencing. It is intended to reduce repetitive discussions on the Net by addressing commonly raised topics. Most of the questions and answers pertain to FIE (Olympic) Fencing, although footnotes that are applicable to kendo have been included where relevant. This document is maintained by Morgan Burke (Email: mor...@sitka.triumf.ca). Contributions, corrections, and suggestions are welcome. Last Revised 1993-Sept-15 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- The following questions are addressed in this document: General: 1) What sports and martial arts comprise fencing? 2) How do western and eastern fencing styles differ? ** revised ** 3) Which is the best weapon? For Beginners: 4) Does it hurt? 5) What is the best weapon for a beginner to start with? 6) How long does it take to become good? 7) What qualities make a good fencer? 8) How much does it cost to get involved in fencing? For Experts: 9) What kind of cross-training will help my fencing? 10) Do flicks have the right-of-way? Reference: 11) How do I find a good fencing club? ** revised ** 12) What kind of equipment should I buy? 13) Where can I order or buy equipment? ** revised ** 14) What organizations control fencing? ** revised ** 15) Bibliography 16) Glossary ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) What sports and martial arts comprise fencing? The Olympic sport of fencing is comprised of three weapons: foil, epee, and sabre. The rules governing these three weapons are determined by the FIE (Federation Internationale d'Escrime). Briefly, the FIE weapons are described as follows: Foil: Descended from court sword training weapons of the 17th-18th centuries. The foil has a thin, flexible blade with a square cross-section and a small bell guard. Touches are scored with the point on the torso of the opponent, including the groin and back. Foil technique emphasizes strong defense and the killing attack to the body. Epee: Similar to the dueling swords of the mid 19th century, epees have stiff blades with a triangular cross section, and large bell guards. Touches are scored with the point, anywhere on the opponent's body. Unlike foil and sabre, there no rules of right-of-way to decide which attacks have precedence, and double hits are possible. Epee technique emphasises timing, point control, and a good counter-attack. Sabre: Descended from cavalry swords of the late 19th century, sabres have a light, flat blade and a knuckle guard. Touches can be scored with either the point or the edge of the blade, anywhere above the opponent's waist. Sabre technique emphasises speed, feints, and running attacks. The most popular of eastern fencing techniques is kendo, the Japanese "Way of the Sword". Kendo is fought with a bamboo shinai, intended to resemble a two-handed Japanese battle sword. Combatants wear armour, and strike to the top or sides of the head, the sides of the body, the throat, or the wrists. Accepted technique must be observed, and judges watch for accuracy, power, and spirit. Other martial arts that include elements of swordsmanship are: Aikido -- self defence against armed and unarmed attackers. Includes using and defending oneself against Japanese sword techniques. Arnis, Escrima -- stick fighting. Iaido -- the Japanese art of the draw. Kenjutsu -- the unadulterated Japanese martial art of the sword. Kung-fu -- a Chinese martial art that includes many sword techniques. Modern Pentathlon -- the "soldier's medley", a sport that recreates demands placed on a pre-20th century military messenger: running, swimming, shooting, equestrian jumping, and epee fencing. Single Stick -- an ancestor of sabre fencing. SCA -- the "Society for Creative Anachronism", an organization that attempts to re-create the lifestyle of Medieval Europe, including jousts and tourneys. Emphasizes heavy weapon and shield techniques, the use of armour, Florentine fencing, and fencing in the round. Additional info on the SCA can be found in the newsgroup rec.org.sca. 2) How do western and eastern fencing styles differ? There is a lot of room for debate on this question. Considering only FIE fencing vs. kendo, one can spot a few obvious differences in technique. Kendo is a two-handed style used against armoured opponents in a two-dimensional ring. FIE fencing, on the other hand, is a one-handed style used against unarmoured opponents on a one-dimensional strip (piste). There are many resulting differences in stance, movement, and defensive strategy. FIE fencing is more liberal when defining valid attacks, but more restrictive when defining valid defences. A fencer needs only to contact his opponent's target area with sufficient force to score a point; style and technique are not relevant to the attack's validity. Consequently, proper defence demands complete avoidance of the opponent's blade. The onus is always on the defender to respond appropriately to the attack, or else he risks having his response ignored completely by the director or machine. Kendo is more liberal on the subject of defence, but is much more restrictive regarding valid attacks, partly due to limitations in armour coverage and manual judging. There is also an assumption that by mastering attacks on limited targets, a kendoka should in principle be able to strike accurately at any chosen target in a real sword fight. Kendo also has a strictly defined style which must be observed; judges watch not only for accurate touches, but sufficient strength behind the attacks, proper technique, motivation, intent, coordination of mind, spirit, and body, and a willingness and ability to continue attacking. Defence is less of an issue, and can be as simple as muddling the clarity of the opponent's attack. Some kendoka take the position that defence is irrelevant, although this is somewhat exaggerated. The difference in emphasis between offence and defence is philosophical, and is sometimes summarized by saying kendo (and perhaps Japanese martial theory in general) places a premium on destruction of the enemy, while personal survival is irrelevant. Western fencing philosophy, on the other hand, questions the value of victory if you don't survive to tell the tale. The kiai (yell) is a formalized and essential component of a good kendo attack, but it is also commonly used by more exuberant FIE fencers. Etiquette and formality is much more prevalent in kendo (and eastern martial arts in general) than in FIE fencing, and at times borders on the ritualistic. Kendo has more gradations of skill level (ie. belts) has and two or three competitive levels based on rank that can make it easier to measure your progress and set goals. FIE fencing competitions tend to be more open, and novices can sometimes find themselves matched against Olympic level fencers. This is not necessarily a bad thing. 3) Which is the best weapon? Such a question is an open invitation to religious warfare. Everybody loves to participate, but nothing is ever settled. If the question means "what kind of fencing is the most fun?" then the answer is: it depends what aspects of fencing you enjoy the most. If you are fascinated by technique, bladework, and tactics, you will probably get a lot of satisfaction from foil fencing. More visceral fencers who want to experience the adrenaline rush of a fast, agressive sword fight will want to try some sabre. Most epee fencers consider themselves practical, no-nonsense sword fighters who rely on as few artificial rules as possible. Enthusiasts of more medieval combat styles, involving armour and heavy weapons, should consider joining the SCA or a kendo dojo. On the other hand, if the question means "which weapon is the most deadly?" the answer will depend on a lot of factors, not the least of which are the skill of the combatants, the presence of armour, the military and cultural context, and the rules of the fight (ie. is this a street fight, a gentlemen's duel, or open field warfare?). Most swords are highly optimized for performance in a specific environment, and will not perform well outside it. Comparing two swords from completely different historical contexts is therefore extremely difficult, if not downright silly. Then again, perhaps the question means "which style of fencing is the most realistic?" It must be said that questions of realism have little relevance to an activity that has almost no practical application in the modern world other than sport and fitness. Historically, however, epees have the closest resemblance (among FIE weapons) to real duelling swords, and the rules closely parallel those of actual duels (sometimes being fought to only a single point). Other martial arts with a high realism factor include kenjutsu and some aspects of SCA fighting. 4) Does it hurt? Not if done properly. A well executed fencing attack hurts no more than a tap on the shoulder. Reckless and overly aggressive fencers can occasionally deliver painful blows, however. Fencing *is* a martial art, so you should expect minor bruises and welts every now and again. They are rarely intentional. The primary source of injury in fencing is from pulled muscles and joints. Proper warm-up and stretching before fencing will minimize these occurences. There is a risk of being injured by broken weapons. The shards of a snapped blade can be very sharp and cause serious injury, especially if the fencer doesn't immediately realize his blade is broken, and continues fencing. Always wear proper protective gear to reduce this risk. FIE certified jackets, britches, and masks are ideal, as they are made with bullet-proof fabrics such as kevlar. If you cannot afford such extravagances, use a plastron (half-jacket worn beneath the regular fencing jacket), and avoid old and rusty masks. Always wear a glove that covers the cuff, to prevent blades from running up the sleeve. Fencing is often said to be safer than golf. Whether or not this is true, it is an extraordinarily safe sport considering its heritage and nature. KENDO: Although kendo attacks are executed with appreciable force, accurate attacks to the armour are not painful, although missed attacks can bruise. Novices tend to be the best at making bruises. 5) What is the best weapon for a beginner to start with? This question pertains to FIE fencing. The choices are foil, epee, and sabre. Foil is the most common starter weapon. It is an excellent weapon to begin with if you have no preferences or want to learn generalized principles of swordfighting. Transitions to the other weapons from foil are relatively straight forward. Foil is an abstracted form of fencing that emphasises proper defense, and cleanly executed killing attacks. Historically it was a training weapon for the rapier and court swords, so it is well suited for the purposes of learning. However, it is far from a simple weapon, and many experienced fencers return to foil after trying the others. Sabre can also be an effective starter weapon, for a few reasons. Like foil, it has rules of right-of-way to emphasize proper defense, and its de-emphasis of point attacks can be a relief to a beginner who doesn't yet have much point control. Also, many low-level sabre competitions are still fenced dry, meaning that it can be the cheapest of all weapons to compete in (although electric sabre is definitely the most expensive weapon to compete in). However, sabre differs from foil and epee in a few key respects that can reduce its effectiveness as a starter weapon if the fencer plans to try the others in the future. Among these differences are the aforementioned de-emphasis of point attacks, and a different sense of timing and distance. Epee can sometimes be a good starter weapon for two reasons. First, the rules are simple and easy to grasp, and second, the competition costs are lower, since no lame' is required. However, the apparent simplicity of the sport can obscure its subtleties to the beginner, and make progress difficult later on. Furthermore, the lack of right-of-way in epee can make transitions to the other two weapons difficult, if put off for too long. 6) How long does it take to become good? There is a saying that it takes two lifetimes to master fencing. By the time anyone has come close to "mastering" the sport, they are long past their athletic prime. Some may feel that this is a drawback to the sport, but most fencers see it as a great strength: fencing never becomes dull or routine; there are always new skills to master, and new grounds to conquer. A dedicated novice who practices twice per week will be ready to try low-level competition in 3-6 months. Competition at this point should be viewed as a learning aid, not as a dedicated effort to win. Serious attempts at competing will be possible after 2-3 years, when the basic skills have been sufficiently mastered that the mind is free to consider strategy. A moderate level of skill (eg. C classification, shodan) can take 3-6 years of regular practice and competition. Penetration of the elite ranks (eg. world cup, A classification, 4th dan) demands three to five days per week of practice and competition, and usually at least 10-15 years of experience. Progress can be faster or slower, depending on the fencer's aptitude, attitude, and dedication. Rapid progress normally requires at least three practices per week, and regular competition against superior fencers. The average world champion is in his late 20s to early 30s and began fencing as a child. Kendo world champions are generally 6th dan. 7) What qualities make a good fencer? There are many. On the athletic side, speed and endurance must rank foremost. Other traits that can be exploited are strength, precision, and flexibility. On the intellectual side, a good mind for strategy and tactics is essential. Quick reaction time is extremely important. The ability to quickly size up your opponent and adapt your style accordingly is essential. Psychologically, a fencer must be able to maintain focus, concentration, and emotional level-headedness under intense conditions of combat. Stress management, visualization, and relaxation techniques are all helpful to putting in winning performances. As far as body type goes, height seems to be an advantage in epee, but not in sabre. Small or thin people are harder to hit in foil. A long reach is always an advantage. It should be noted that left handers usually enjoy a slight advantage, especially against inexperienced fencers. This may account for the fact that lefties make up 15% of fencers, but half of FIE world champions. 8) How much does it cost to get involved in fencing? Beginner's dry fencing setup: about $100 US Includes: cotton jacket, glove, dry weapon, mask FIE Competition setup: about $500 - $1000 US Includes: FIE 800N jacket & britches, FIE 800N mask, at least 2 FIE (maraging) electric weapons, body cord, socks, glove, shoes, lame (foil & sabre only), sensor (sabre only). Note: costs can be as much as halved by avoiding purchasing FIE certified clothing and arms. While such equipment is required at national (Canada and Europe, but not USA) and international levels of competition, most local tournaments will overlook it. If you use a cotton or synthetic knit jacket, however, be sure to wear a plastron underneath. Kendo: shinais run from about $25 (bamboo) to $250 (graphite). Kendogi and hakama (jacket and skirt) $100 - $400, depending on the quality. Armour (men, kote, do, tare) runs from about $300 (used) to $1500 and up, although it can usually be rented or borrowed from a club. Club costs vary, but are usually on the order of $50-$100 per year for each day per week of fencing. Many clubs will provide or rent equipment to beginners. 9) What kind of cross-training will help my fencing? The best training for fencing is fencing. Few other sports use the same muscle groups, so this is a difficult question whose answer depends largely on what aspect of your training you really want to focus on. Cardiovascular fitness and leg strength always help, so anything that enhances these will be beneficial. Cycling, swimming, and aerobics are good examples. Running, sprinting, soccer, basketball, and similar sports can also be helpful, although some athletes dislike the stresses they put on the knees. Racquet sports like tennis, badminton, squash, racquetball, and table tennis are also excellent, and will exercise your weapon arm and reflexes in addition to your legs. Many martial arts have physical and mental demands that are similar to fencing, and can improve both your fitness and your intellectual approach to the sport. Technique and tactics very rarely translate, however. Weight training can help, if done properly, but the athlete must remember that flexibility, speed, and technique are more important than raw strength. Endurance training should have priority over strength training or bodybuilding. Some fencers maintain that juggling improves reactions, hand-eye coordination, and use of peripheral vision. Many coaches and fencers suggest occasional fencing or workouts with your opposite hand, both to improve skill and balance your muscular development. 10) Do flicks have the right-of-way? A "flick" is an attack that is executed with a cutting motion followed by a sudden stop, so that the foible of the blade whips around a blocking parry or body part to score. The attack is controversial for several reasons. The most important concern with flicks is that they challenge many commonly-held beliefs about what constitutes right-of-way in a fencing attack. In particular, some fencers believe that flicks do not take the right-of-way because they begin out-of-line (ie. pointing away from the target) and often with a significantly bent arm. Because of this, they feel that by counter-attacking into the flick, they should be awarded the attack on the preparation. Such beliefs are descended from the incorrect notion that right-of-way demands an extended arm with the point aimed at the target. In actual fact, an attack begins when the arm STARTS its extension, and the point of the weapon is moving towards the target. A phrase that is commonly heard is that the weapon must be "threatening the target". This does not necessarily mean that it is aimed at the target, but that the scoring part of the weapon is on a trajectory that will hit the target if nothing is done to prevent it. A blade must point at the target to threaten it if the fencer is thrusting, but if the blade action is a cut (which includes flicks) then the blade need not point at the target at all. Instead, the arc of the blade (and more importantly for foil, the tip) must intersect with the target area. In a well-executed flick, the arm does extend and the point traces a smooth arc towards the target. Therefore, it takes the right-of-way as soon as the arm begins its extension and the point starts moving forward. A successful attack on the preparation must start BEFORE the final extension of the flick begins. The same is true of any attack that begins out of line, whether it is a flick or not. A secondary concern with flicks is that some fencers dislike it because it is non-traditional and relies on blade properties that did not exist in the golden age of dueling. Such concerns are of relevance to historical re-creations of fencing, such as one finds in stage fighting or the SCA. The sport of fencing, however, is not a simulation of 17th century murder techniques, but a modern, dynamic, highly technological sport that honours those techniques that work today, not just the ones that worked a couple of centuries ago. Regardless of how one feels about the flick, it is a legitimate attack, and a very dangerous one in the hands of a skilled fencer. It is important for experienced fencers to know how to use it and/or defend themselves against it. 11) How do I find a good fencing club? Start with your local Provincial or Divisional fencing association. If you don't know how to find them, contact your national fencing body (see question 14). The local association will be able to tell you about officially recognized clubs in your area. Many universities and colleges also sponsor fencing clubs and teams that will often accept non-students as members. You might also check out courses or camps offered by local community centers. Once you have a list of potential clubs, you will want to evaluate them and your needs. Desirable qualities vary, depending on your skill level and what you want to get out of fencing. Ask the following questions when selecting your club (if you're not sure what you want, "yes" is a good answer to all these questions): Does it have an active beginners' program? Are there enough fencers of your own skill level? Are there some fencers above your skill level? If you don't have your own equipment, does the club provide it? Does the club have ample electric scoring boxes and reels? Does the club emphasize the same weapons that you are interested in? Do club members compete regularly? Does the club have a master or coach? Has he/she had many competitive successes either fencing or coaching? Can you get individual lessons and instruction? At no extra cost? Lastly, atmosphere is important to any social endeavour. Choose a club that makes you feel comfortable and relaxed without sacrificing the athletic spirit that is essential to progress. KENDO: Seek a club or dojo that is affiliated with your national kendo federation. Try to find a sensei who is at least 4th dan, if possible. 12) What kind of equipment should I buy? This FAQ does not endorse particular brands, but will point out some of the things to consider when purchasing equipment. CLOTHING: FIE 800N clothing is the most expensive available, and is required at the highest levels of competition. It includes special fabrics (such as kevlar or ballistic nylon) around vital areas such as the chest, belly, and groin, and is highly resistant to punctures by broken blades. Alternatively, you can purchase kevlar underclothes and wear regular cotton outerwear. If not using 800N clothing, cotton or synthetic jackets should be utilised in conjunction with a plastron. Most jackets are left- or right-handed. Sabre fencers may wish to consider extra protective padding and elbow protectors. Jock straps are helpful for men, and breast protectors are essential for women. A glove for the fencing hand is essential; it should cover the sleeve cuff, and have an opening at the wrist for the body wire. For the anal-retentive, FIE rules state that fencers must wear only white, and that skin must not show between the socks and pant legs. For casual and beginner fencers, sweat pants or baseball knickers are reasonable alternatives to genuine fencing clothing. MASKS: The best have FIE 800N bibs to protect the neck, but cost considerably more than the regular varieties. For foil, masks should be well-insulated to prevent touches to the head from conducting to the lame' and registering as a touch. Electric sabre masks must be conductive, on the other hand, to allow head touches. Avoid old and rusty masks, and consider subjecting a used mask to a punch test before using/purchasing it. LAME'S: Stainless steel is preferred, as they are much more corrosion resistant than older copper ones. Your lame' should come to your hip bones, and be form-fitting but not tight. Most lame's come in right and left-handed versions. Regular rinsing or careful hand-washing of your lame' (especially immediately after a tournament or practice) will improve its lifespan. Avoid folding, crumpling, or abrading it. WEAPONS: Maraging steel blades are now required at the highest levels of competition. They are about twice the price of regular blades, but are supposed to be more durable, and break more cleanly. There are a large number of variables to consider when shopping for blades, including stiffness, length, durability, flex point, weight, balance, and (of course) price. Which qualities a fencer prefers is largely a matter of taste. The length and thread of the tang may also be an issue. A wide variety of grips are available to epee and foil fencers, but choice is also a matter of preference. Guards come in various sizes and weights. Some fencers will also have preferences between 2-prong and bayonet body cords and connectors. SHOES: Fencing shoes are ideal, but expensive. Indoor court shoes, volleyball shoes, and even wrestling shoes are good alternatives. KENDO: bamboo shinai are the most common, but an avid kendoka can go through one or two per year. Regular sanding and oiling of the shinai staves will enhance its lifespan and reduce splintering. Graphite shinais cost 10 times as much as bamboo, but should last at least 10 years in recreational use, and they require little maintenance. When purchasing armour, concentrate especially on your kote and men. If buying used, watch for wear that manifests itself as softness on the top of the men and the wrist section of the kote. Also watch for missing padding over the knuckles. If buying new, remember that you can buy individual pieces; your money is best spent on quality men and kote, while you can get by with cheaper do (eg. fibreglass, rather than bamboo) and tare. 13) Where can I order or buy equipment? Most of the following businesses will mail you a catalogue if requested. This FAQ does not endorse any of these companies. USA: Triplette Competiton Arms Blade Fencing Equipment, Inc. 162 W. Pine St. 212 West 15th St. Mt Airy, NC 27030 NY, NY 10011 TEL: (919) 786-5294 TEL: (212) 620-0114 FAX: (212) 620-0116 George Santelli, Inc. 465 South Dean St. American Fencers Supply Englewood, NJ 07631 1180 Folsom St. TEL: (201) 871-3105 San Francisco, CA 94103 TEL: (415) 863-7911 Colonial Distributing Fencing Equipment Uhlmann International PO Box 636 Wolf Finck, Pres. USA Headquarters Cedarburg, Wisconsin 53012 330 N. Fayette Drive TEL: (414) 377-9166 Fayetteville, GA 30214 FAX: (414) 377-9166 TEL: (404) 461-3809 The Fencing Post Zivkovic Modern Fencing Equipment 2543 Monticello Way 77 Arnold Road Santa Clara, CA 95051 Wellesley Hills, MA 02181 TEL: (408) 247-3604 CANADA: Fencing Equipment Calgary Herb Obst Agency 2407 Bayview Place CP 788 NDG Station Calgary, Alberta T2V 0L6 Montreal, Quebec H4A 3S2 TEL: (403) 281-1384 TEL: (514) 482-2140 FAX: (403) 281-0043 FAX: (514) 485-9283 BRITAIN: Blades Leon Paul 35 Edinburgh Drive 14 New North Street Staines, Middlesex TW18 1PJ London WC1N 3PW TEL: 0784 255-522 TEL: 071 405-3832 FAX: 0784 245-942 FAX: 071 405-3834 SCORING MACHINES ONLY: Fencing Technologies Commodore Systems P.O. Box 3154 P.O. Box 22992 Iowa City, Iowa 52244-3154 Nashville, TN 37202 TEL: (319) 337-4128 TEL: 1-800-627-4903 KENDO: Jukado, Inc. Kyoto Tozando 10126, Saint-Laurent boul. Mukomachi P.O. Box 27 Montreal, Quebec Kyoto 617 Japan Canada H3L 2N7 FAX 75-344-4719 TEL: (514) 387-6978 FAX: (514) 387-7110 14) What organizations control fencing? Federation Internationale d'Escrime 32, Rue La Boetie 75008 Paris, France Amateur Fencing Association (Britain) 1 Barons Gate 33-35 Rothschild Road London W4 5HT Tel: 081 742-3032 Canadian Fencing Federation 1600 Prom. James Naismith Drive Gloucester, ON K1B 5N4 TEL: (613) 748-5633 FAX: (613) 748-5742 United States Fencing Association 1750 East Boulder Street Colorado Springs, CO 80909-5774 TEL: (719) 578-4511 FAX: (719) 632-5737 British Kendo Federation 31 Woodstock Rise Sutton, Surrey GB-SM3 9JE Canadian Kendo Federation 150 Lesmill Road Don Mills, Ontario M3B 2T5 TEL: (416) 445-1481 FAX: (416) 445-0519 Kendo Federation of United States 25600 Rolling Hills Way Torrance, California 90505 15) Bibliography This list has been compiled from suggestions by rec.sport.fencing readers, and is far from complete. Fencing references: Anderson, All About Fencing (Arco, 1970) Castello, The Theory and Practice of Fencing (Charles Scribner, 1933) Castello, Fencing (Ronald Press, 1962) Crosnier, Fencing with the Foil (Faber & Faber, 1951) Curry, The Fencing Book (?, 1984) Lukovich, Electric Foil Fencing, (Corvina Press, 1971) Nadi, On Fencing (G.P. Putnam, 1943) Palffy-Alpar, Sword and Masque (FA Davis, 1967) Manley, Compleate Fencing (Doubleday, 198?) Selberg, Foil (Addison-Wesley, 1976) Kendo references: Zen Nihon Kendo Renmei, Fundamental Kendo (Japan Publications, 1974) Kodansha, Kendo (?, ?) Sasamori & Warner, This is Kendo (Tuttle, 1982) Warner & Draeger, Japanese Swordsmanship Technique and Practice (Weatherhill, ?) 16) Glossary of terms: Fencing terms: ============== Attack: an action that includes extension of the arm, a forward moving blade, and the threatening of the target with the scoring part of the weapon. Balestra: a forward hop or jump, typically followed by an attack such as a lunge or fleche. Bayonet: a type of electrical connector for weapons. Beat: an attempt to knock the opponent's blade aside or out of line. Conversation: the back-and-forth play of the blades in a fencing match, composed of phrases (phrases d'armes) punctuated by gaps of no blade action. Counter-attack: an attack made against the right-of-way, or in response to the opponent's attack. Counter-parry: a parry that is initiated by first coming around to the opposite side of the opponent's blade. Eg. counter-sixte. Counter-riposte: an attack that follows a parry of the opponent's riposte. Corps-a-corps: lit. "body-to-body"; illegal physical contact between the two fencers during a bout. Coule': an attack or feint that slides along the opponent's blade. Coupe': also cut-over; an up-and-down motion of the blade that avoids the opponent's parry. Cut: an attack made with a chopping motion of the blade, landing with the edge or point (see Flick). Derobement: avoidance of an attempt to take the blade. Disengage: a circular movement of the blade that avoids the opponent's parry. En Garde: fencing position; the stance that fencers assume when preparing to fence. Envelopment: an attack on the blade that sweeps the opponent's blade through a full circle. Fleche: lit. "arrow"; an attack in which the aggressor leaps off his leading foot, attempts to make the hit, and then passes the opponent at a run. Flick: a cut that lands with the point, often involving some whip of the blade. Florentine: a fencing style where a secondary weapon or other instrument is used in the opposite hand. Foible: the upper, weak part of the blade. Forte: the lower, strong part of the blade. French Grip: a traditional hilt with a slightly curved grip and a large pommel. Guard: the metal cup that protects the hand from being hit. Foils use small bell guards, epees use large bell guards, and sabres have a knuckle guard that wraps around the hilt to protect from cuts to the hand. Hilt: the handle of a sword, consisting of guard, grip, and pommel. In Quartata: an attack made with a quarter turn to the inside, concealing the front but exposing the back. Insistence: forcing an attack through the parry, using strength. Italian Grip: a traditional hilt with finger rings and crossbar. Lame': a metallic vest/jacket used to detect valid touches in foil and sabre. Line: an extended arm and blade that threatens the opponent; also, the main direction of an attack. Lunge: an attack made by extending the rear leg and landing on the bent front leg. Mal-parry: a parry that fails to prevent the attack from landing. Maraging: a special steel used for making blades; tends to be stronger and break more cleanly than conventional steels. Neunte: parry #9; blade behind the back, pointing down. Octave: parry #8; blade down and to the outside, wrist supinated. Opposition: a counter-attack or riposte that deflects or binds the attacking blade. Parry: a block of the attack, made with one's own blade. Pasatta-sotto: a lunge made by dropping one hand to the floor. Phrase: a set of related actions and reactions in a fencing conversation. Piste: the linear strip on which a fencing bout is fought; approx. 2m wide and up to 14m long. Pistol Grip: a modern, orthopaedic grip, shaped vaguely like a small pistol; varieties are known by names such as Belgian, German, Russian, and Visconti. Plastron: a half-jacket worn over the weapon-arm side of the body for extra protection. Pommel: a fastener that attaches the grip to the blade. Preparation: the initial phase of an attack, before right-of-way is established; also, an attack made on a fencer who is in preparation. Prime: parry #1; blade down and to the inside, wrist pronated. Priority: in sabre, the rules that decide which fencer will be awarded the touch in the event that they both attack simultaneously. Pris-de-fer: an attempt to push the opponent's blade aside or out of line. Quarte: parry #4; blade up and to the inside, wrist supinated. Quinte: parry #5; blade up and to the inside, wrist pronated. In sabre, the blade is held above the head to protect from head cuts. Redoublement: renewal of an attack that missed or was parried, after a return to en-garde. Remise: renewal of an attack that missed or was parried, in the same line as the original attack. Reprise: renewal of an attack that missed or was parried, in a different line to the original attack. Right-of-way: rules for deciding which of two touches should be given precedence, in foil and sabre. The attack has right-of-way over the counter-attack; the riposte has right-of-way over the remise of the attack; the counter-riposte has right-of-way over the remise of the riposte; and so on. Riposte: an attack made immediately after a parry of the opponent's attack. Seconde: parry #2; blade down and to the outside, wrist pronated. Septime: parry #7; blade down and to the inside, wrist supinated. Simultaneous: in epee, two hits that arrive within 1/20 - 1/25 s of each other. In foil and sabre, two attacks for which the right-of-way is too close to determine. Sixte: parry #6; blade up and to the outside, wrist supinated. Stop Hit: a counter-attack that stops the attack from finishing. Three Prong: a type of epee body wire/connector; also an old-fashioned tip that would snag clothing, sometimes used in conjunction with dye markers to make it easier to detect hits in the pre-electric era. Thrust: an attack made by moving the sword parallel to its length and landing with the point. Tierce: parry #3; blade up and to the outside, wrist pronated. Two Prong: a type of body-wire/connector. Whip-over: an invalid touch in sabre that results from the foible of the blade whipping over the opponent's guard or blade when parried. Whites: fencing clothing. Kendo Terms: ============ Bogu: complete kendo armour, consisting of men, do, tare and kote. Bokken: wooden practise sword. Budo: martial way; martial arts in general. Chudan: middle position; sword at waist level, point towards opponent's throat. Dan: rank or grade. Do: chest protector made of laquered bamboo and leather or fibreglas; a cut to the body. Dojo: exercise hall or training room. Gedan: low position; sword pointing towards ground (kenjutsu). Hakama: pleated, divided skirt, usually cotton or cotton blend. Hasso: side position; sword handle at face height and to one side (kenjutsu). Hayasuburi: jumping or bouncing practise stroke. Ji-geiko: free practise; sparring practise. Jodan: high position; sword above the head, ready to strike down at the opponent. Kakari-geiko: attack practise; one person provides openings, and the other attacks. Kamae: posture or position. Kata: series of ritual practise excercises performed by kendoka; required for grading. Katana: steel sword. Kendo: way of the sword. Kendo-gi: long, heavy shirt with 3/4 length sleeves, usually cotton. Kendoka: a practisioner of kendo. Kiai: showing strong spirit by yelling from the abdomen. Kirikaeshi: two-person practise where one person makes a series of cuts to the side of the head, and the other person blocks them. Kote: padded glove/gauntlet; a cut to the wrist. Maai: combat distance - to position yourself relative to your opponent for safety and for offensive ability. Men: helmet made of steel mask and quilted padding; a cut to the top of the head. O-suburi: very big practise stroke (almost to the ground). Saiumen: cut to either side of the top of the head; also yokomen. Seiza: formal kneeling position. Sensei: teacher. Shiai: match or contest. Shimpan: referee. Shinai: bamboo practise sword. Sonkyo: crouched posture. Suburi: practise stroke. Suriashi: kendo footwork; sliding steps on the balls of the feet with the right foot always in front of the left. Tare: hip and groin protector. Tsuki: thrust to the throat. Waki-gamae: back position; sword behind the body pointing towards the rear (kenjutsu). Zanshin: correct finishing posture/position/attitude after attack, demonstrating mental alertness, good guard, and correct position. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS: Author: Morgan Burke (mor...@sitka.triumf.ca) Contributors: many helpful suggestions made by Suman Palit and Guy Smith; some fencing supply house addresses obtained from Greg Dilworth and Kevin Taylor; USFA address and some books suggested by Eric Anderson; Kendo references supplied by Al Bowers, Drew Saunders, Steve Hick, and Robert Stroud; a lot of kendo material supplied by Neil Gendzwill; British sources supplied by Blaine Price. (C) 1993 Morgan Burke Permission is granted to copy and distribute all or part of this document for non-profit purposes. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of rec.sport.fencing FAQ